With a group of five cycling friends—Martijn, Stan, Berry, Dennis, and Ewoud—and under the guidance of our guides Antoon and Samuel, we embarked on an 8-day cycling adventure through Kenya. This journey took us across vast savannas, through wildlife reserves, along massive salt lakes, and over high plateaus. We encountered the local population in remarkable ways. Here’s a day-by-day report of our experiences:
Leaving Nairobi early in a bright green bus, we headed to Amboseli National Park. The Kenyan traffic was an adventure itself, filled with colorful vehicles and chaotic rides. Once we arrived at our eco-lodge, we quickly unpacked and prepared for our first gravel ride. Despite our initial plan to take it easy, the ride soon turned into a race over dusty roads. Along the way, we encountered the Masai and cheerful children. We cycled on the slopes of Kilimanjaro, tackling tough climbs and long descents. Our day ended at a cozy roadside restaurant with disco music and goat with fries on the menu.
Cycling through Amboseli National Park was one of the highlights of the trip. We pedaled among zebras, giraffes, and antelopes, guided by our Masai guide. The landscape was stunning, just like a scene from National Geographic. After a spontaneous lunch with a welcoming Masai community, we continued our journey over bumpy gravel. It was hot and challenging. As dusk fell, we rode the bus to our overnight stop at Masai farmer Kenny’s place. Getting there was an adventure in itself, with our driver Patrick maneuvering the bus through rough wilderness. Upon arrival, we received a warm welcome from the entire family, along with a lavish dinner.
The farmer we stayed with had an impressive, innovative organic farm. He shared his experiences with drought and the challenges of farming in Kenya. Kenny is tireless in his efforts to help Masai communities become more resilient to climate change—truly inspiring! We left late that day and were soon exposed to the heat. The route was tough, with a descent over large lava stones and rough gravel. By the end of the day, we were exhausted but rewarded with a stunning sunset. We camped by a river, enjoying good conversations by the campfire.
The next morning, we woke up to African singing. We began early with a challenging 4 km climb, where we often had to walk due to the steepness. After the climb, we faced a demanding route with many river crossings and villages where children greeted us enthusiastically. Riding through the Mara was a unique experience, with beautiful gravel roads and zebras and wildebeests running alongside us. Our day ended at the comfortable Lolita Lodge, run by the Masai chief and his Dutch wife, Manon. The bus carrying our gear was five hours late, as it had run out of diesel en route. We made the best of it by warming ourselves by the campfire before retreating to bed after a cold shower.
The Mara offered us stunning views and a chance to spot elephants. In the evening, we enjoyed beers on the roof of the bus, overlooking the savanna. The next morning, we headed to Iten, the heart of Kenyan running and cycling. There, we met the young riders of team Amani, an inspiring group who shared their experiences as cycling pros.
Iten, located on the edge of the Rift Valley, gave us a different perspective of Kenya. Not only is it home to world-famous Kenyan runners, but it’s also an emerging hub for cycling athletes. We cycled over clay paths, dealing with punctured tires and a jammed derailleur. Upon arrival, we had lunch with the young riders before continuing our ride in Iten.
A ride with the riders from team Amani was on the agenda. For them, it was a Zone 2 ride; for us, it sometimes felt like VO2 max. These light and fast riders outpaced us, but we all had a great time!
The ride from Iten to Nairobi took us over paved roads, a welcome change after six days of gravel. It was a spectacular day with a beautiful descent through the valley, rising heat, and an unexpected encounter with ostriches. Upon arrival, we enjoyed a well-deserved shower and rest. Some of us spent the day recovering from stomach issues on the bus.
Our last ride was short but intense, challenging for those dealing with rumbling stomachs. We rode over rough gravel and crossed the equator! We continued by bus back to Nairobi.
What makes Kenya so special is the combination of spectacular landscapes, wildlife, and a rich, diverse culture. During our journey, we saw landscapes change in a single day, from vast savannas to lush forests and mountainous terrain. The feeling of freedom and adventure you get while cycling among zebras and wildebeests is unmatched! Moreover, it’s wonderful to see the growing cycling culture in Kenya, with events like the Migration Gravel Race and the Rift Valley Odyssey. Besides the immense privilege of having this unforgettable cycling experience, we also aim to give back. We donated €800 to Masai farmer Kenny and team Amani.
